It’s day 3 here in Bonaire and on today’s agenda is the Combii tour seeing both the North and South side of the island with Voyager Bonaire. I was able to get what I would consider VIP parking today because it was along the same street as the port for the cruise ship. Today’s cruise ship was the AIDA Bela which is a German cruise ship. I noticed the tent that I was looking for was not in the same location today and after getting turned around with looking for my activity yesterday I didn’t want the same thing to happen today so I asked someone nearby who looked as though they may know and they told me they did move further down today behind the market (as they pointed  could see it).

     The Voyager Bonaire tent was one of the first few so I checked in and they had me down so I paid $35 onsite for the Combii Tour. I was given a ticket and told to be back by 9:10am. By now it was about 8:50am so I walked around the Arts & Crafts market again, picked up a few more souvenirs and popped into a store or two across the street. By 9:03am I headed back to the meeting spot to see that a German couple on the ship waiting as well. Next came a family threesome (father, mother and daughter) from Trinidad. This was our group and we were introduced to our tour guide Vanessa. We were each given a bottle of water and escorted to the van to begin the tour. 

     First up, the north side of the island as we began through the shopping district of Kralendijk (which was just a block over and only a block long). We continued on our ride and learned quite a few things on the way like the following:

• Kralendijk is the only shopping district
• Bonaire is almost twice as big as Aruba but is less populated
• Mango and pistachios are prevalent on the island
• Captain Don’s Habitat was the first diving resort in Bonaire (per their website: “Shore diving is a must at Captain Don’s Habitat and around the island of Bonaire rated as the top shore diving destination in the world!”)
• Aida cruise ships tend to bring their own bikes (we saw many cyclists on our ride to the North side)
• There are 242 caves in Bonaire that have been discovered so far
• The manzanilla tree (aka manchineel tree) is located on the island and is one of the most poisonous in the world
• The Caribbean sea
• There are corals on the island that are millions of years old

     Alright so a little bit of history really quick, the first inhabitants on the island were Native Americans. The Spanish came looking for gold and because they didn’t find any considered the island useless. They (the Spanish) exported the Native Americans to South America and Spain with the intention of making them slaves. Due to some resistance they were then brought back. The island ended up being handed over to the Netherlands who brought over African slaves. Most people from the island are considered a mix of Native American and African. In 1863 slavery ended here and as somewhat of a gesture of goodwill they were given pieces of land (aka cunucus but that land had no access to running water or electricity;water wells were provided). Many people used the land as farms and to this day some people live on the land but most now commute in. 

     We passed a building where the slaves were were traded, a prison slaves were put in at the time and even stopped and visited 1000 steps where they often came up from ships (although I cannot seem to find more about this anywhere online). This area is off the Caribbean Sea and is known as a famous dive and snorkeling site. I took a moment to let my feet soak in the water (it was croweded in the area today). There are certain areas that are protected along the shoreline where no access is allowed and there are cameras hovering above. Next up we arrived at Gotomeer where in the distance we could see some flamingos but a further ride down gave us a better sighting.

     A few cool things about flamingos that I learned is that the island has about 8,000 flamingos and they only lay one egg a year on average. Baby flamingos are actually white and the truth behind how they get their pink color is because they consume algae and carotenoid pigments. What you might consider to be a flamingo’s knees are actually their ankles as their knees are actually located under their wings. They don’t really have any natural predators. You can likely find flamingos on the island in the areas of Pekelmeer Lac Bay, Washington-Slabaai National Park and at other saliñas in the park as well. 

     We were given the option as a group to either stop at the Cadushy Distillery (which I’ve already been to) or Museo Chich’itan which housed old instruments, cultural artifacts and photos. Thankfully, as a group we decided on the museum. Upon arriving onsite outside was a small bar, a few vendor tables, toilets and an outside area. I actually walked right past the museum as it was very easy to miss but eventually went inside. There wasn’t much detail as to what everything was as it just looked like a layout of an old home that was furnished inside. 

     Afterwards I checked out what they had at the bar and I saw something like and empanada but it was a pastechi. After being told that they were good I didn’t need to be told twice as I was hungry and just asked how much they were (they were $3). I got the beef pastechi and it was good enough for me. As I was eating the German guy asked me how it was and I told him it was good so he said he was going to get one but our time was running out. I proceeded to wait in the van and eat and everyone came to join. The family from Trinidad were so disappointed that they missed the fact that could’ve gotten food inside (they were busy buying jewelry at the other tables). The German couple came eating their pastechi saying it was a good recommendation. (Onward now to the south side of the island as everything mentioned above happened on the north side). Below are some more facts I learned during the tour:

• Bonaire doesn’t get hurricanes but hurricanes in Florida can affect the island by pulling the winds from it therefore making it hot
• There are only 4 gas stations on the island (and 1 of them is up the street from me. Vanessa said that my gas station was the only one that you’re able to still get gas at once it is closed)
• Rincon was established in 1527 by the Spanish
• Bon bini means welcome in Papiamento
• There are about 1,800 donkeys on the island and about 750 in the Donkey Sanctuary (the Donkey Sanctuary is where donkeys that are in really bad shape are kept)
• The main religion on the island is Catholic
• The Chinese own about 95% of the supermarkets and 80% of the restaurants on the island
• Crime occurs on average 5% a year (and is usually theft)

     Let’s talk about healthcare and education in Bonaire. Healthcare is free and if you need to have a procedure done in another country the government will fly you there and pay for everything (even if you need a caretaker to go with you-meanwhile the healthcare system in the United States is astronomical). There is only one firestation on the island and it is located centrally in Kralendijk. As far as education goes there are 7 primary/elementary schools, 1 middle school with 2 locations and if someone is interested in continous education/college they will have to go off the island elsewhere. 

     We passed by the salt mountains and the pink color is a result of the micro-organisms the flamingos eat being amplified and it sits for about a year until the water evaporates; It becomes white and then pink. Seeing this in person was a beautiful sight and really spectacular. The salt produced here is 99.7% pure salt and Vanessa had a piece ready to give to all of us (I have a nice chunk). The salt mountains are actually big chunks of salt versus fine salt toppled like a pyramid. The slaves that worked with the salt before there were machines ended up developing sore hands and feet and becoming half blind being out in the sun for continous hours everyday. In 1850 slave huts were built for them with 6-8 people often being in one and sometimes it being 8-10 people. As we stopped on the side to get a closer look I went in one and sat in the doorway. It’s too small inside for that many people. I couldn’t even smile when taking the photo instead I just imagined how they would’ve felt.

     We continued toward the south and passed quite a few beaches on the way. We stopped over near Sorobon beach (which Tee actually told me about yesterday-she said I had to go) and I found out that this is the beach I’ll be taking my windsurfing class at tomorrow as I saw their shop there and windsurfers out in the water. This area was very busy today likely due to the cruise ship and Vanessa said tomorrow it probably won’t be as many people because there will be no ships tomorrow. It was an option to be dropped off at a beach if we wanted some beachtime but you would have to arrange your own pickup. The German couple opted for this so we dropped them off on the way back to downtown and they set up a time and paid with Vanessa for someone to come back and get them. Here are my last few facts from the tour today:

• KFC is the only fast food chain on the island
• In cemetaries here (at least at the biggest one) people are buried above the ground
• Old houses were made from coral and sand
• The sales tax in Bonaire is 5%
• Harry Belafonte has a neighborhood named after him
• There are 250 species of fishes in Bonaire
• Bonaire is in their high season for cruise ships where they may only have four days in the month in which they don’t get a cruise ship in

     Arriving back at our pick-up point the Trinidad family and I thanked Vanessa for our tour (we also tipped her). On the way back she explained her work and family situation (works 2 jobs, has 4 children and a grandchild that she is taking care of solely herself) so it seemed appropiate (plus she actually did do a good job as a guide). Since most stores were still closed earlier I chose to go in a few surrounding stores. I ended up grabbing a big shopping bag to bring souvenirs back in ($8) and an iced coffee. I wanted to check out Altagracia Grill as many told me that’s where I could find local food.

     I went in the tourism office to inquire as to where I could find a book in English that talks about the culture of Bonaire. I was given 2 names, Del Mar and Bruna as bookstores to check out. Del Mar wasn’t far so I walked and ended up stopping at a supermarket I passed to get more drinks to bring home. When I arrived I asked the cashier and she didn’t have anything like that in store (everything was either in Dutch or Papiamento). She said Bruna was likely not going to have anything because it was more of a dutch store. Upon talking food was mentioned and she suggested I go to this place called Konfo. We mapped it in Google maps and it showed me an address that was close to where I parked so I headed there. 

     Once there, I couldn’t find it! I walked past the destination in maps and then circled back before it and this Konfo place was not here. She even told me what it was directly next to and it wasn’t there but you know what was there…Altamaria. I ended up ordering food there but had to send it back to the kitched because I tried to get clarity on the dish but what I was served I knew I wouldn’t eat so I just ended up gettin beef stew from there. By now I was tired, feet were hurting walking/hopping around in sandals all day and I was ready to get in the car and go but first to the bookstore Bruna to see if they had what I was looking for. 

     Luckily, it was located directly across the street from the same Sand Dollar Resort from yesterday so I parked and went in to check it out. Unfortunately there was nothing their and even the travel agency next to it didn’t have anything. I walked around the small mall area to see what was there but there wasn’t much as they were doing construction on the area. Right before getting in the car across the street there was a Multishop Local Art store so since I was there I checked it. There were actually some English books inside but not exactly what I was looking for. I settled on a picture book of Bonaire and a local newspaper (free) that was in English to gift to a younger cousin of mine who I was told has been following me in my travel journey (shoutout to Nia). 

     Feeling a bit more accomplished I set out to head back to Rincon to my Airbnb for it had been a long day and I had had an early start. Once back and settled in I showered and just took a few hours to be still and relax. Nearby I could hear drums and as I contemplated whether I wanted to venture out and see where it was coming from or not I eventually did. Over in a lot to the side of the Airbnb looked like middle school students having a drumming practice. I gazed on for a minute or two then headed back inside spotting a few donkeys on the side of the road. Once I finally got the energy to craft all the happenings of today it was late. I did not intend for this to be such a long recap but such is life; windsurfing tomorrow.